One of the most common questions asked of a veterinarian by an expectant parent (or grandparent) is how to introduce a new infant to the resident dog, particularly if the dog has not been exposed to infants before.  Most dogs readily accept infants after a period of curiosity.  However, there have been unfortunate incidents where infants have been injured by family dogs. 

There are three types of dogs about which parents should be particularly concerned:

• Dogs that have already manifested aggressive tendencies to babies
• Dogs that are, in general, also aggressive to adults
• Dogs that have a history of predatory behavior, i.e., they chase and kill squirrels, birds, cats, goats, sheep or other mammals. 

If dogs with such histories are identified, it would be wise to consult an animal behavior therapist for advice on if and how they should manage future dog-child interactions.

Fortunately, most dogs look upon a baby with curiosity and show no signs of aggression.  However, some dogs perceive an infant as a strange mammal and a potential item of prey.  Dogs that have never seen a baby probably do not view them as young human beings or even as small people.  To help prevent accidents (sometimes fatal), some precautions should be taken.

The following protocol is designed for people to follow when they wish to be especially careful in introducing a baby to an non-aggressive family dog.  The procedures begin before the baby is born.

• Because the owner will want to keep the dog quiet and under control when the baby is in its vicinity, the dog should reliably sit or lie down on command, and remain that way unless permitted to get up, regardless of other activities.  It should be taught to remain calm and in a sitting position, for pleasant rewards rather than to avoid punishment.  Because the commands “sit” and “stay” will eventually be used in conjunction with the baby, they should not be associated with punishment.
• Owners should begin by teaching their dog to sit and stay for delicious tidbits.  The dog is initially required to remain only for a few seconds, and this time is very gradually increased.  Simultaneously, the activity level around the dog is made progressively arousing.  For example, while the dog is sitting, the person takes a step backward and then forward and then rewards the dog, if it is still sitting.  Next, the owner takes two steps backward, returns to the dog, takes a step to the side, then two steps to the side, etc.  Gradually the owner extends the range and speed of activities, moving across the room, sitting down, standing up, rattling door knobs, etc.  The dog is rewarded for sitting and not accompanying the owner on these sojourns.
• After the dog has demonstrated it can remain seated while the owner performs numerous, rapid activities, the owner may then begin simulating activities that will occur with the baby.  While the dog is in a sit/stay position, the owners can carry a doll wrapped in blankets, rock the doll in their arms, let the dog look at the doll while keeping the dog in a sit/stay position, pretend to diaper the doll, etc.  The dog is rewarded for sitting and remaining calm as people engage in these activities.  A firm “no” is appropriate if the dog begins to get up when it should not.  However, if the owners must repeatedly say “no,” something is wrong with the training procedures.  At no time should the owner berate the dog with threats or hit it for getting up.  The idea is to avoid associating unpleasant events (punishment) with such words as “no” or “stay” because the parent will later use those words to restrain the dog in the presence of the baby.  The owners should look at these practice sessions as games and not as discipline exercises.
• Before the baby is brought into the house, items that have been associated with the infant, such as clothing or baby blanket, can be brought home and the dog allowed to become familiar with the baby’s odor.  Initially, the dog should be permitted to sniff and smell the items as much as it wishes.  Later, the owners might have the dog sit and stay as they pick up and put down these items, carry them, etc.
• When the mother returns from the hospital, the dog should be allowed to greet her without the baby present.  Only after the dog has calmed down should the baby be presented to the dog.  Sometimes it is a good idea to keep the dog and baby separate for several hours, while allowing the dog to sniff more items of clothing and become aware of the general presence of the baby.  In this manner, the dog can begin to get used to the presence of the baby in the house without actually being close enough to investigate it.  The dog can adjust, somewhat, to the sounds and odors of the baby.
• The appropriate time to introduce a baby to a dog is after the dog’s excitement level has dissipated and the baby is in a quiet mood.  Optimally, two people should help with the introduction, one to control and reward the dog and the other to hold the baby.  The rapidity with which the procedures are carried out and the number of steps involved vary.
• Depending upon the exuberance of the dog, the person holding the baby may be sitting or standing.  The dog should be on a leash in a sit/stay position and is rewarded with petting or praise.  By this time, food rewards should no longer be necessary.  Gradually, dog and baby are brought closer together.  The dog should be allowed to see the baby but remain in a sitting position.  As long as the dog is quiet, it should be allowed to remain nearby until it is necessary to move the baby or the baby becomes restless.  Such introductions should be repeated several times during the first day.  The dog may eventually be brought close enough so it can smell the baby, but not close as to be able to bite.  The owner must use his or her own discretion as to when it is appropriate to let the dog sniff the baby closely.  If after several introductions the dog is not unduly excited and can be verbally controlled, the procedures can be repeated without a leash.
• The next step is to allow the dog to wander loose while the owner is with the baby.  The dog should not, however, have access to the baby in unsupervised situations.  A screen door or baby gate can be put on the baby’s room or the dog confined to areas of the house where it does not have access to the baby in the absence of the owners.  The dog should be allowed as much freedom in the house and interaction with the adults as possible.  Initially, when the parents prepare to interact with the baby in the dog’s presence, they should also interact with the dog in some manner.  They might say “let’s go see the baby,” or ask the dog to sit and pet it or give it a tidbit.  Again, food rewards are not necessary every time the owner asks the dog to sit or stay but intermittent food rewards keep its performance level high.

There are no definite guidelines as to when a dog actually accommodates to an infant and perhaps begins recognizing it as a person.  Most dogs probably adjust to the presence of the infant within a few days, while others may take several weeks.  After the dog has been with the child for many hours and has become used to the child’s sounds and movements (i.e., pays little attention to these activities and is not aroused by them), the parents can probably relax supervision of the dog in the presence of the child.  This depends on the dog’s history of aggression, particularly predatory behavior.  While one cannot tell parents to relax and be totally unconcerned after the dog has had several weeks of supervised interaction with the baby, it is unlikely that an unfortunate incident would occur after that time if the dog is non-aggressive, relaxed and relatively uninterested in the baby in supervised circumstances.  If the owners are concerned, they may put a latched screen door on their baby’s bedroom door or put up gates to prevent access to the child when the owner is not there.

Most incidents of dogs killing babies a few days to a few months old occur within the first few hours of the infant’s presence in the home, when the dog unexpectedly comes upon the new baby in an unsupervised situation.  It is believed that predatory behavior is the motivation for attacks on infants.

To adjust to the presence of the infant, the dog must be gradually exposed to the infant.  Initial exposures must be supervised and pleasant for the dog so it does not associate adverse events with the baby.  To prevent an uncontrollable response during these exposures, the dog should have been previously trained to control itself in exciting situations.

If you have anymore questions regarding this subject please call us: 269-4451

The Winnipeg Humane Society also holds DOGS & STORKS classes – visit their website for the next available class: www.winnipeghumanesociety.ca

What causes demodectic mange?

Demodectic mange, sometimes just called “demodex”, is the most common form of mange in dogs.  The demodectic mange mite, a parasite that lives in the hair follicles of affected dogs, causes it.  All dogs (and many humans) have a few of these mites on their skin.  As long as the body’s immune system is functioning, these mites cause no harm. 

Demodectic mange most often occurs when a dog has an immature immune system, allowing the mites to grow rapidly.  Therefore, this disease occurs primarily in dogs less than 12-18 months of age.  In most cases, as a dog matures, the immune system also matures.  Adult dogs that have the disease usually have defective immune systems.

Does this mean that demodectic mange is not contagious?

Yes.  Since the mite is found on virtually all dogs, exposure of a normal dog to one with demodectic mange is not dangerous.

Why doesn’t the immune system mature correctly in some dogs?

Development of the immune system is under genetic control.  Thus, an affected dog usually comes from a litter containing other affected puppies.  Owners of littermates should be put on the alert to watch for it.  Because the disease is due to a genetic defect, affected dogs should not be bred.  Also, parents of the affected dog should not be bred again.

What does demodectic mange do to the dog?

Surprisingly, a dog with demodectic mange does not always itch severely, even though it loses hair in patches.  Areas of bare skin will be seen.  The hair loss usually begins on the face, especially around the eyes.  Sometimes, a secondary bacterial infection can occur in the skin and itching can then be intense.  When there are only a few patches of hair loss, it is termed localized demodectic mange.  If the disease spreads to many areas of the skin, it becomes generalized demodectic mange. 

How is demodectic mange treated?

The localized form is usually treated with topical medication.  The generalized form is treated with a medication called ivermectin which is given by mouth.  Some dogs are extremely sensitive to ivermectin and an alternate form of treatment must be employed.  This involves weekly dips in an insecticidal dip.   For dogs with generalized demodectic mange, secondary skin infections may represent a complicating factor requiring antibiotic therapy and medicated baths.  Dogs with skin infections have very red, inflamed skin.  This is the source of the term “red mange.” 

What is the prognosis for my dog?

Treatment of the localized form is generally successful.  Treatment of the generalized form is also usually successful.  However, if the immune system is defective, neither the mites nor the infection may respond to treatment.

Following successful treatment, is it likely to recur? 

Because the immune system does not mature until 12-18 months of age, a dog with demodectic mange may have relapses until that age.  It is important for retreatment to begin promptly to minimize the possibility of developing uncontrollable problems.  Demodectic mange may also occur in very old dogs because function of the immune system often declines with age.  Dogs who have immune suppression due to illness or medication are also candidates for demodectic mange.

Is your dog a picky eater? Is it normal? Why do some dogs turn their noses up at the food you offer them while others will eat anything and everything? Having a picky eater can be frustrating!!…BUT there are ways to encourage your dog to eat new food.

When humans don’t eat for a day or so, we become light-headed and weak.  Owners need to understand that, unlike us, dogs have a mechanism in their livers that maintains their blood sugar if they don’t eat.  They can go for days without eating and not get sick; especially if they are overweight (we take a different approach if they are tiny and not overweight).

• First and foremost, they must not have access to food at all times.  They must be meal fed.
• The food is put down and left down for 10 minutes and if they don’t eat it , it is taken away.
• This is done twice a day.
• Have the owner pretend to eat the food.
• Make a game of it – throw it up in the air, throw it down a hallway.
• If they are really stubborn and haven’t eaten after 3 days, add a small amount of chicken broth to soften the food.  If they will eat the food that way, then gradually decrease the amount of chicken broth being added until they are eating it without the broth.
• No treats or table food, no access to cat food if they have a cat; also if they have another dog don’t allow access to their food.

If your dog has suddenly developed the habit of being picky about what he/she eats, is accompanied by vomiting and/or diarrhea, your dog is showing signs of other illness, or the picky eating is associated with weight loss, your dog should be examined by a veterinarian. Visiting your veterinarian will help rule out any underlying medical conditions, such as gastrointestinal or oral disease.

Deciding to keep your cats indoors can be a difficult choice, but it is one of the best choices you can make for your cat(s). Although it takes patience, an outdoor cat can be turned into a perfectly content indoor pet with indoor cat initiative.

Why Keep Your Cat Indoors?

• It’s the law!  In Winnipeg, a bylaw is in place that prohibits a cat from going onto property outside of their own yard.
• The average lifespan of an outdoor cat is 2 years. They are hit by cars, killed by dogs or wild animals in the neighbourhood, or poisoned or killed by angry neighbours. Not to mention the other cats that are out there that they can fight with.
• They kill song birds. There has been a noticeable decline in the number of songbirds in North America, most likely due to multiple factors but certainly cats do take their toll.

 How Can We Make Outdoor Cats Tolerate Being Indoors?

• This is a monumental task for anyone with a cat that has decided to go outdoors.
• First and foremost, when you bring a kitten in to your home NEVER take it outside. Once a cat has a taste of the outdoors it will ALWAYS want to be an outdoor cat.
• Make life inside FUN! Create a happy atmosphere! Toys, play time with you, a window to look out of, catnip from time to time. All these things more than compensate for the risks your cat faces outdoors.
• For some cats, no matter whether they have been exposed to the outdoors or not, they still want to be out; or, you adopt a cat has already been outdoors.  These are the ones that are the challenge. The following organizations and companies have taken it upon themselves to try to help owners in this situation.
• THE CAT’S DEN  http://www.thecatsden.net/Here you will find information about outdoor enclosures that provide a safe way for cats to go outside.

• THE INDOOR CAT INITIATIVE http://indoorpet.osu.edu/ – We created the Indoor Cat Initiative to enrich the lives of indoor cats. We believe that indoor enrichment is as important as an excellent diet and health care……….

It’s well worth the effort to reform an outdoor cat to the indoors. Your cat will lead a much safer, longer, and happier life with you.

From first-time kitten owners to seasoned cat companions, cat owners are divided whether or not cats should be allowed outdoors. This is the great indoor-outdoor cat debate! Do cats really want to go outside? Do they need to? And even if the answer to both questions is “yes,” is it really in their best interest?

What is an “outdoor cat”?

We could say that there are different outdoor lifestyles for cats:

• The cat that is scared to death of the outdoors and would not even go near an open window.
• The cat that sits at the window with the screen open for other cats to come up to and visit.
• The cat that goes outside on the deck for a little sun, on a leash and only with mom or dad present.
• The cat that goes outside for a little sun without mom or dad and without a leash and is supposed to stay on the deck.
• And finally, the cat that goes off the deck, into the yard and out of the yard as it pleases.

Statistics indicate that the life span of an indoor cat is much longer than an outdoor cat.  On average, an indoor cat lives twelve years but some cats can live for as many as twenty years.  In comparison, an outdoor cat’s life expectancy is less than five years.

The pros of keeping a cat indoors out-number the cons of an indoor cat.  Most are directly related to the health and safety of the cat.

Pros:

1. Injury or death by vehicles
2. Poisoned intentionally or accidentally
3. Injury or death by fighting with other cats
4. Infectious diseases contracted from other cats: FIP,FIV,FeLV,URIs (see below)
5. Parasites: fleas, ticks, ringworm, tapeworm, ear mites. Outdoor cats are as at risk for heartworm disease as dogs as well.
6. Injury or death by dogs or predators
7. Killing of wildlife by outdoor cats
8. Getting lost, picked up by Animal Control
9. Theft for sale as laboratory animals or “bait” for illicit gaming
10. Problems with neighbors: cats littering their yards

Cons:

1. Indoor cats can be lazier, and don’t always get the exercise they need.
2. Cats by their very nature desire the freedom of outdoor life. Cats love the outdoors, fresh air and sunshine.
3. Owners have to provide mental stimulation for their cats. However the pro to this is it encourages cat/owner interaction.
4. Cats can have redirected aggression if other cats are in their territory and they can’t defend it.

What diseases can cats get when they go outdoors?

• Upper Respiratory Viruses (calici and herpesvirus) and Feline Distemper - These viruses can be tracked in on shoes or blow in on the air.  Therefore, all cats, whether indoors or outdoors need to be vaccinated for these viruses.
• Rabies - This virus requires that the cat be bitten by a rabid animal.  As unlikely as it may seem, it is possible for cats, even in 14^th floor apartments to be bitten by a rabid animal and it has happened – a rabid bat.  If a cat develops rabies, it acts as a source of infection for humans that are in contact with it.  Therefore, in our opinion, all cats should be vaccinated against rabies.
• Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) - Transmission of FeLV is through bodily fluids – urine, feces and saliva.  So, any cat that has no contact with other cats does not need this vaccine.  However, even the cat that “visits” with the cat outside the window through the screen is at risk and should be vaccinated.  As well, kittens can be born with the virus, transmitted across the placenta from mom.
• Feline Infectious Peritonitis Virus (FIP) - This virus is present in the feces of cats that are carrying the virus and shedding it.  A cat that is going “off the deck” into even their own yard can come in contact with the virus via the feces of another cat in your garden, or in a neighbour’s garden.  Cats that fall into this group need to be vaccinated
• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV or Feline AIDS) - Feline AIDS is contracted via a bite wound from a cat carrying the virus.  If your cat is “free-roaming”, you can be guaranteed that there are other cats out there that can act as a source of infection, whether they are in coming into your yard or they are hanging out in your neighbour’s yard.

What are the consequences if a cat gets one of these diseases?

• Upper Respiratory Viruses And Feline Distemper - Disease associated with these viruses can be very mild to very serious, depending on the level of immunity that a cat possesses.  If your cat has not been vaccinated recently, it can develop a very severe form of disease.
• Rabies - Always fatal.
• Feline Leukemia Virus - Cats can remain asymptomatic for an unpredictable period of time.  Always fatal, once they show signs of disease         
• Feline Infectious Peritonitis Virus - Always fatal
• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus – Cats can remain asymptomatic, as with feline leukemia.  Eventually fatal, often after protracted illness.

What can be done to protect your cat from these diseases?

• Upper Respiratory Viruses and Feline Distemper - Annual vaccination is virtually 100% protective for feline distemper.  However, the upper respiratory viruses, in particular, must be boosted annually for maximum protection.
• Rabies - Cats require vaccination as kittens, at one year of age and then every two years.  This vaccination protocol is virtually 100% protective.
• Feline Leukemia Virus - This vaccine must be given annually to maintain immunity.  Protection is not 100%, depending on the situation and exposure.  However, in cats that are outdoors and in occasional contact with cats carrying the virus, protection is thought to be 80% or better.
• Feline Infectious Peritonitis Virus - Again, vaccination is required annually.  This vaccine is also not 100% effective but certainly provided better than 80% protection
• Feline Immunodeficiency Virus - As with FIP and FeLV vaccines, the vaccine is approximately 80% effective and must be boosted annually.

Hopefully this blog has helped you to decide what is best for your cat. Next week we will continue to discuss Indoor Cat Initiative.

What is your opinion, should domestic cats be allowed out or kept indoors?

TO BE CONTINUED: INDOOR CAT INITIATIVE: NEXT WEDNESDAY

Today is the perfect day to start thinking about how you can make 2012 the best year for you and your pet. These New Years resolutions for pet owners will help keep your pet healthy, happy and safe throughout the year .

• Exercise with your pet more – Need an exercise partner? Look no further! You know it’s good for you. You know that exercise can give you energy, help you maintain a healthy weight, keep your muscles and joints flexible, help you live longer, and above all, make you feel better. For all the same reasons, your pets need to get up and get moving too. Not only can exercise extend your furry friends’ lives; it may also expend some of their nervous energy and make them a little less likely to chew on the living room drapes. Some dogs are satisfied with a walk around the neighborhood once a day, while others require additional exercise time. Cat owners, remember that your kitty needs to exercise too. Dedicate at least five-ten minutes a day to play with your cat.
• Customize your pet’s diet – Diets should be suited to the animal’s age and size. When your pet is kept at an ideal body weight, your pet can live a longer, healthier life. They are also at a lower risk of heart disease, joint problems, and various other conditions associated with poor health. If you are unsure of what you should be feeding your pet, call Best Friends at 269-4451.
• Don’t postpone the annual visit to the vet – Being proactive by keeping pets current on their vaccinations and parasite prevention will be much cheaper in the long run. Make sure to maintain good communication with your veterinarian and staff and update them on any pet health or behavior changes that could identify a problem sooner. And make sure you speak with your veterinarian before acting on any advice you find online, which may be inaccurate or inappropriate for your pet. For information on wellness programs we offer visit: Best Friends: Wellness Programs
• Have your pet spayed or neutered – Spaying or neutering not only reduces the amount of unwanted litters but it also can benefit your pets’ health too! Spaying or neutering can help decrease the risk for testicular cancer, prostate enlargement, urine marking and aggression for males, and a decrease in mammary cancer, uterine cancer, and ovarian cancer for females. For more information on spaying and neutering visit: Best Friends: Surgical Services
• Use preventives – You don’t want to have to worry about heartworm, fleas or other pesky parasites. Preventives are your pet’s best line of defense against fatal parasites. For more information on these fatal parasites visit: Best Friends: Heartworm & Lyme Disease
• Get your pet ID’d – Your pet should have some form of permanent identification on them. Whether it be a tattoo or microchip, identifying your pet and your contact information will help your chances of having your pet returned should it become lost. Just remember to keep your contact information current. For information about microchipping visit: Best Friends: Microchipping
• Pet-proof your home – Pets will get into anything and everything! Make sure to keep your poisonous & dangerous items in a secure, out of reach place like a locked cupboard.
• Dental care for your pet – What would happen if you stopped brushing your own teeth? Even if you only ate hard food as most dogs and cats do, there still would be problems. Properly brushing you pets teeth daily will help remove plaque buildup. Even though pets do not commonly get cavities, they do suffer from periodontal disease. If left untreated the gum disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, or even organ damage. For more information about dental care visit: Best Friends: Dental Health

The new CALM™ diet may help relieve stress or anxiety in pets without using medication. It provides the proper amount of three unique calming ingredients to help reduce the pet’s anxiety and create an overall calming effect.

1. Alpha-casozepine – a molecule derived from the tryptic hydrolysis of milk protein that has been found to have a calming effect on babies and pets.
2. L-tryptophan – is a precursor to serotonin. Serotonin is a neurotransmitter that inhibits anxiety, helps with sleep regulation and decreases dominance and territorial aggression.
3. Nicotinamide (Vitamin B3) – like benzodiazepines and alpha-casozepine, creates a calming effect.

“I have an 11 year old Corgi cross. If you know the Corgi breed, they are very stubborn and protective of their environment. SInce I started feeding Roo Royal Canin CALM, I have noticed that he does not become upset so quickly when someone or something goes by our living room window. When he becomes over-excited and aggressive it is much easier to put him in a relaxed state.”    Tanyss Robertson

Help your best friend through life’s journey with Royal Canin Calm!

Now Available at Best Friends Animal Hospital

To find out more visit www.royalcanin.ca

Congratulations to our 2011 Christmas 50/50 Draw Winner 626028! When you come down to claim your prize, make sure you have your ticket stub.

Thanks to everyone who helped support the Winnipeg Humane Society this Christmas. Our Christmas 50/50 total was $282.50. So our lucky winner and the WHS get a total of $141.25 each!!

For everyone who purchased tickets for our Christmas 50/50 draw this year, we will be  drawing the winning ticket number on Tuesday, December 27. The winning number will then be posted on Facebook & Website. Good Luck!

On another note……Christmas is rapidly approaching and there is finally snow on the ground….but for how long? The weather has been amazing! I hope you are all ready for the holidays, it’s less than 1 week away!

Make sure to visit our facebook for photos with Santa….and feel free to share your photos as well! The more the merrier!

Bonnie